(For Jeeves)
14.8.2014
The first thing that strikes you as you step out of the Ahmedabad railway station is how easily this could be any other town. Indore, Jhansi, Nagpur, Amritsar. Of course, what I really mean to say is that it could be any
b-town. It is bustling, but not robust.
The clouds have followed us from Bombay, the dark grey trail of clouds first making their presence felt as we move from one local part of Bombay to another in the Shatabdi, then mutating into a threat over the shamrock green fields that border the states of Gujarat and Maharashtra. These are the things one notices in fleeting glances: a vermillion umbrella moving against the neon green; cranes lazing indifferently around cows in what seem to be paddy fields; a fakir standing at the open door of a matchbox house built on the railway tracks. I assume the lady of the house (for at that ripe afternoon hour, it always is) has stepped inside to gather leftovers from a previous meal to give him.
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| All photo credits: mine. |
Varun and I sit and watch the streaks of fierce green pass us by. "What I really want, are endless fields of weed," he says, looking out of the window. I tell him quite seriously that the trees we're looking at are in fact "weed trees", and the farmers are waiting for the overripe weed fruit to fall on the ground, so they can dry them in the sun and make weed. He guffaws delightedly through my flawless performance, leaving a fond shake of the head for last. I suddenly dearly miss the days when he would have believed that story, retaining a goggly-eyed devotion for whatever came out of his sister's mouth.
I notice a man and a woman with their young son in the the seats in front of me on the train. The kid is about seven or eight years old and hyper active. He keeps yelling out any communication required of him in a decibel that his parents are now attuned to not even register as yelling. The man is hands-on with the kid throughout the journey, over-compensating almost. He tries doing things for the boy that border on the unnecessary and stupid even. The mother, like all mothers, deals with the kid with a detached patience. Mothers perfect the art of running on minimum energy input. She has decided this, this 8 hour journey, stuck with her yelling child is not her battle. Not today. So obviously, I make up a story in my head. The man - the husband and father - clearly over-compensates for some absence in his son's life. Maybe an army man then, or someone who works in another city or country. I feel a little happiness purr inside me, for having observed this little fact; of knowing their secret. It is only at the end of the 8-hour journey that I have another, equally plausible alternative. Couldn't it be, per chance, mayhaps, that they weren't husband and wife? Her brother, maybe? I take the knock on my head and learn my humility tables all over again.
This is also the first time, on a train to Gujarat, that I realise that I don't like the sound of Gujarati. My visceral reaction to it is irritation. The Gujarati man-boy in his cargos and paunch-hugging red t-shirt sitting behind us can be heard telling someone on the phone, "Haan please mereko resume update karne mein help dena padenga. Kya hai, bluff bhi karna rahenga toh thoda limit mein na," in perfect Bambaiyya hindi.
***
The house of course, is beautiful. It's exactly what I love about and in houses - intimacy. It's built on a modest plot of land, the area that say a log cabin at a resort somewhere would take up, but three floors and a terrace up. Surya uncle and Jai aunty are old family friends, having known us since our days in Ahmedabad, which we left in 1996. He's an architect, Telugu. She's a graphic designer, Gujarati. The two of them, hitting 50 now, met at UCLA while studying in America. Jai aunty now lectures in colleges (NIFT, A.U, CEPT) and runs an NGO that teaches fine arts to women and school kids. She's slender, waifish, tall. A straight, beautiful aquiline nose and grey-green eyes. Her soft-spokenness a perfect foil for Surya uncle who is almost military-man like with his impressive mustache and devotion to fitness. Jai aunty hasn't aged a day since I saw her last, almost 20 years ago.

Everything about their house is a perfect reflection of them. There's a zen garden outside, the curtains in the house are made from old, worn sarees. Not brand new curtains that are
supposed to look like old sarees. These are sarees she's owned and worn. Each window is a living receptacle of her touch and memory. A small fish pond with lily pads has tiny fish sized like little tadpoles. "These fish feed on larva, so they keep mosquitoes away," Surya uncle tells us. There's an expensive high-end bircycle hanging on a huge peg at one end of the garden area, its tyres muddy. Nothing here is a simulation, it is the thing itself.


Every thing in this house and outside it is exactly where it's supposed to be because there are such few things in the first place. It encompasses what they're about so well. There is no TV. All the wood used in the house are rejected pieces from shops/sellers because of various non-uniformities. The flushes in the house use waste water from their washing machine. They've designed the house in such a way that there this a wind-trap on the terrace that funnels air into every room in the house. An elaborate network of chutes that trap the outside air, as a result of which, like magic, like physics, they work as natural air-conditioning.









The books however, are endless. They're on every floor, every nook and corner, threatening to call mutiny. On careful inspection of their old editions, one is reminded immediately of college libraries. Literary theory, architecture, occult, philosophy, business, gardening, farming, music, fiction, dance, photography, ecology, urban landscape and policy wrestle for space on their shelves.
When I spot Pradip Krishen's seminal book on trees hiding behind some tomes (not the one pictured above), I am not surprised. As I struggle with my urge to pick up every book and cuddle with it on a ready mattress, I decide this is what my house will be too. These are the things it will, it has to represent. I pick a few books to peruse for the day.
As I walk downstairs with them, I notice a book on their bed - one of them must be reading this in bed -
Natural Capitalism, says the title. It makes me smile. But of course they do.
Just after our lunch, Surya uncle and Jai aunty excuse themselves to go back to their work day. I listen to him explaining the mechanics of the flush while I'm drinking a glass of water. I can hear Jai aunty tell my mother they prefer not to have processed or packaged ingredients at home - they grind all their spices themselves, or use them whole - in the background. I seem to have hit the glass ceiling of wide-eyed wonder and amazement for the day. There is no space for me to take any other information in.
Just as he's leaving for his car, I place my glass down to shut the front door behind him and he tells me,
off-handedly, which you have to understand is what
makes this, "Oh, the water we're all drinking? Rain water".